After a 4am wake up ready for the transfer to Keflavic airport, i sadly packed my bags and prepared to leave. when I arrived there was hardly a soul at the airport, but this morning the queue for Icelandair was snaking around the airport, so having only 1.5 hours before my flight out, I started to stress as the queue inched closer to check in. I was starving as it was too early for brekky at the hotel and no food is served on this airline, unless you buy from their overpriced menu, the flight to Stockholm was 3 hours or so. On arrival in sunny Stockholm, I purchased a very expensive return express train into town, nearly $80, so skybus is cheap as! From the Central station, i had to get a local metro 2 stops to my hotel, and it certainly was a good choice as have been all my accommodations, i recommend bookings.com which i have used for all my trips and not had a bad hotel yet! the hotel was fairly old and in a groovy street with cool cafes and shops and I discovered it was walking distance from the lovely old town, the city centre and other museums, the ferries, etc. I walked a lot even though I purchased a 3day travelcard for trains, ferries and trams! Yes they have trams! I saw some great architecture, photography museum with a Robert Mapelthorp exhibition, old and new postal advertising at the Postal museum, a massive medieval ship The Vasa, recovered intact which sank on its maiden voyage and they built a museum around it, and enjoyed exploring the old cobblestoned town. But, it was not as clean as Iceland, and i saw a few homeless men scavenging thru garbage bins.
the food, like Iceland is expensive, so I avoided restaurants and ate kebabs, empanadas and shopped at the supermarket.
I was sightseeing and walking hours on end and was so tired every night, it stayed light til nearly midnight but there was some darkness unlike in Iceland. Everyone speaks English like in Iceland so it is very easy to get by. I nearly went to Ikea as there is a free bus from the city, but decided against it as there was no room in my bag for a Sven sofa or even an Erik mixing bowl! It was 27 degrees C, and very warm with icecream sales booming! people stripped off to their underwear in the parks on the grass and anywhere there was a bench to sunbathe!
then back to the airport on the very expensive shuttle train and fed every few hours by Qatar air. the only incident worth mentioning is I nearly got quite burnt as the attendant passed over a cup of tea while the man in front dipped his seat back, and dropped it on my lap! I shot up and danced around the aisle, soaked with hot tea and the attendant was in shock. Lucky it was not boiling water, but my hand was hurting and i was not impressed being wet down my t shirt and jeans, lucky i had a shirt packed in hand luggage!
So arriving in Melbourne, our good old met let me down as i raced from skybus to spencer st station, i got the 11.30pm train and when we got to Flinders St, it just sat there for half an hour, no announcement, and when I checked the board it was departing as the next train, so i got home after midnight and dragged my weary body and luggage home!
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Monday, July 4, 2011
Sad to say goodbye Iceland
Last days in Iceland
Well my trip around Iceland is rapidly coming to an end and I will be sorry to leave as it is a unique land worth exploring. The weather fluctuates more than Melbourne and you need to be prepared for all conditions in one day. We spend a lot of time on the mini bus with many stops along the way each day, sometimes to use conveniences, for snacks and drinks and meals and for sightseeing, we see at least 2 impossibly named waterfalls a day and many more smaller ones which cascade down the mountains fuelled by the melting glaciers. We are now following the coast and it is beautiful. We saw the glacier where Journey to the centre of the earth is meant to begin in the famous Jules Verne novel, some small fishing villages, and walked along senic coastal paths. We stay in small out of the way farm stay guesthouses which hold you to ransom regarding dinner, there is either an all u can eat buffet for anywhere between $45 - $65 and no other choice or a set meal from about $40 for one course, and usually there is nothing else around for miles. There is lots of seafood and lamb but there have been offerings of pork, chicken, horse and whale!
The daytime temperatures vary from 3 degrees to 15 degrees, so layers is the sensible way to go. I have been swamped by waves, stepped in muddy puddles and slipped on slippery slopes, so am in desperate need of a laundrymat before I move on to Sweden. Since it is daylight constantly, I tend to go off for a walk after dinner for a little me time, and arrive back in broad daylight around 10.30pm trudging along the road or on horse trails, and there are lots of Icelandic horses in the green paddocks which are very friendly and curious and attention seekers. Many parts remind me of Scotland, Switzerland and The Galapagos and Andes in South America. it is rugged and beautiful and attracting more tourists every year.
Back in Rekyjavic and I am sad to say goodbye, but this morning I had a private snorkle in Silfra Fjord, where the tectonic plates split apart the USA and Europe continents, and if my arms were longer could touch both continents at once. I had a thermal drysuit and full diving wetsuit which was very uncomfortable to firstly get on, and then to wear, and the water temp was a cool 2 degrees C, but i think i got some good pix but had mittens on which were hard to work the camera with! The reason I did it on my own with a lovely instructor was that they made a mistake with my booking as 40 kids from the UK were booked in for the morning, but i had no other time to do it, so they kindly took me out on my own, and it was beautiful! The crystal clear waters are filtered by the surrounding lava and can take 30 to 100 years to arrive at the fjord from the glaciers and so it is unpolluted and pure, and i drank some along the way.
Iceland is beautiful and I recommend it highly before the tourists all discover that it is a great place to visit, tourism is their growth industry and I know why! It is full of Viking stories and myths, lovely scenery, cool cafes and towns, english speakers and is alive and active! i have loved my short adventure and want to come back again!
Well my trip around Iceland is rapidly coming to an end and I will be sorry to leave as it is a unique land worth exploring. The weather fluctuates more than Melbourne and you need to be prepared for all conditions in one day. We spend a lot of time on the mini bus with many stops along the way each day, sometimes to use conveniences, for snacks and drinks and meals and for sightseeing, we see at least 2 impossibly named waterfalls a day and many more smaller ones which cascade down the mountains fuelled by the melting glaciers. We are now following the coast and it is beautiful. We saw the glacier where Journey to the centre of the earth is meant to begin in the famous Jules Verne novel, some small fishing villages, and walked along senic coastal paths. We stay in small out of the way farm stay guesthouses which hold you to ransom regarding dinner, there is either an all u can eat buffet for anywhere between $45 - $65 and no other choice or a set meal from about $40 for one course, and usually there is nothing else around for miles. There is lots of seafood and lamb but there have been offerings of pork, chicken, horse and whale!
The daytime temperatures vary from 3 degrees to 15 degrees, so layers is the sensible way to go. I have been swamped by waves, stepped in muddy puddles and slipped on slippery slopes, so am in desperate need of a laundrymat before I move on to Sweden. Since it is daylight constantly, I tend to go off for a walk after dinner for a little me time, and arrive back in broad daylight around 10.30pm trudging along the road or on horse trails, and there are lots of Icelandic horses in the green paddocks which are very friendly and curious and attention seekers. Many parts remind me of Scotland, Switzerland and The Galapagos and Andes in South America. it is rugged and beautiful and attracting more tourists every year.
Back in Rekyjavic and I am sad to say goodbye, but this morning I had a private snorkle in Silfra Fjord, where the tectonic plates split apart the USA and Europe continents, and if my arms were longer could touch both continents at once. I had a thermal drysuit and full diving wetsuit which was very uncomfortable to firstly get on, and then to wear, and the water temp was a cool 2 degrees C, but i think i got some good pix but had mittens on which were hard to work the camera with! The reason I did it on my own with a lovely instructor was that they made a mistake with my booking as 40 kids from the UK were booked in for the morning, but i had no other time to do it, so they kindly took me out on my own, and it was beautiful! The crystal clear waters are filtered by the surrounding lava and can take 30 to 100 years to arrive at the fjord from the glaciers and so it is unpolluted and pure, and i drank some along the way.
Iceland is beautiful and I recommend it highly before the tourists all discover that it is a great place to visit, tourism is their growth industry and I know why! It is full of Viking stories and myths, lovely scenery, cool cafes and towns, english speakers and is alive and active! i have loved my short adventure and want to come back again!
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
from London to Iceland
still in London, I ventured to Borough market to meet Adam and taste the paella made in gigantic pans, we ate while the heavens opened as we sat in relative comfort under shelter in the little spanish stall. From there we wandered about and had a coffee near St Paul's and headed to Oxford St in the rain to meet the cousins for lunch, via an apple shop where i booked in for an ipad check up as my tablet has a few hiccups wot needs sorting! Apparently the genius will sort me out! I made an appointment for the next day.
Lunch was at a rather large Italian restaurant and then the goodbyes! Adam and I wandered up to Covent Garden where he was directing me to a pastie shop, but alas it had been replaced with a patisserie! We got an ice cream at a boutique ice cream shop, chilli and ginger was an acquired taste with chunks of chilli mixed in! Then we walked towards Tower Bridge along the Thames, which took some time. The sun peeped out from behind clouds but the wind picked up. We finally got to the freshly painted Tower Bridge and said our goodbyes. I headed to the Design Museum but was too late to go in, oh well! Met friends from Inca tail and had a home-cooked meal and some red, and recalled our trip as well as talked about Iceland which they loved last year. Then home James, exhausted!
The final day in London had me visiting the apple store genius bar and met Bev for lunch and found a sushi train where we had an awesome dessert of glutinous rice parcels filled with green tea ice cream and one with rich chocolate....mmmmm. After dinner which i cooked for my host, i went to covent garden and had a final farewell London drink and back home to pack.
The next morning I left for Heathrow and allowed 1.5 hours which was perfect to check into my Icelandair flight for Rekyjevic. The flight did not supply meals, you had to buy them, but i was too excited to eat and arrived in sunny Rekyjevic (vic meaning harbour), and took the transfer bus to the Hilton, just out of town. I checked in and after a shower walked into town to explore. I stopped by at the 4th floor hotel on the way in as it was my supposed Intrepid meeting point the next day. The staff had no group booking and had not heard of Intrepid. maybe i got it wrong? Ate fish and chips for dinner near the old harbour and wound my way back up the hill to the hotel, checked my trip notes, yup, the hotel was correct for tomorrow.
So after a most yummy continental buffet breakfast and a long chat to a trez handsome French tourist who spoke perfect english, I checked out and wheeled my luggage to the 4th floor hotel. Alas, the drama unfolded! No booking, no idea, where was I to go now? I tried their internet to contact Intrepid but the message sending failed! Australia was still asleep so no one I could contact there! My phone had little credit left. I logged on to recharge my phone but there was an error! Looked up the London office, finally topped up my sim card via the phone which decided to work, and called. Oh, apparently the hotel had been changed and I should have been informed! FANTASTIC! Got my new details from the London office, thanked the helpful staff of the hotel who were Filipino, trotted off to the new guesthouse with stress levels falling rapidly. Finally got to the correct hotel, checked in and felt relieved and ready to tackle another day of exploring.
I saw a busker attract a huge crowd, juggling on a ladder, Wally from Australia, (can you believe it?) entertained the crowd and made more than a few kroner that day with his antics and witty banter - bizarre! I booked a snorkling trip in a fjord which is between the tectonic plates of North America and Europe on my last day in Iceland. Met up with the new group and took off the next day. Our leader Jens is our guide, historian, geologist, bus driver and local Icelander. We have seen massive waterfalls, walked behind one even! and lava flows, black sand, ash from the Grimsvotn recent eruption, volcanoes everywhere you look, steaming geothermal pools, fjords, geysers which are fun to watch, massive glaciers which are retreating every year due to global warming, white, blue and black lcebergs on a glacial lake which break off from the tongue and drift out to sea to be lost forever in the ocean, twisted metal which were once bridges buckled under the force of post volcanic flooding, daylight which goes on and on and midnight is still bright as midday and i took a photo to prove it!
Every day we drive amongst picturesque, perfect postcard landscapes, one side ice-capped mountains, on the other side beach or fjord, no native forests as the trees were chopped down for wood in the early days of settlement. Houses are made of timber or colourful corrugated iron with bright iron roofs of red, blue and green. We drove through a 6km tunnel and it was the first darkness i have seen here, i do miss the night time. Food is basic and expensive and even more expensive if eating at more gourmet places.
All the placenames are unprounceable, the language is very hard to foreign ears, luckily everyone speaks perfect english! We even stayed at a farm at the base of the Eyjafjallajökull volcano that erupted last year and caused chaos. Iceland is born of volcanoes as not only is it above the tectonic plates between Europe and Nth America, but is a volcanic hotspot and islands are born from underwater volcanoes and the shape of the island can change with each eruption. It is a paradise for geologists. The weather even if 8c - 10c during the day is mild if there is no wind, and you can wear a jacket and feel hot if walking uphill, not like back home!
Lunch was at a rather large Italian restaurant and then the goodbyes! Adam and I wandered up to Covent Garden where he was directing me to a pastie shop, but alas it had been replaced with a patisserie! We got an ice cream at a boutique ice cream shop, chilli and ginger was an acquired taste with chunks of chilli mixed in! Then we walked towards Tower Bridge along the Thames, which took some time. The sun peeped out from behind clouds but the wind picked up. We finally got to the freshly painted Tower Bridge and said our goodbyes. I headed to the Design Museum but was too late to go in, oh well! Met friends from Inca tail and had a home-cooked meal and some red, and recalled our trip as well as talked about Iceland which they loved last year. Then home James, exhausted!
The final day in London had me visiting the apple store genius bar and met Bev for lunch and found a sushi train where we had an awesome dessert of glutinous rice parcels filled with green tea ice cream and one with rich chocolate....mmmmm. After dinner which i cooked for my host, i went to covent garden and had a final farewell London drink and back home to pack.
The next morning I left for Heathrow and allowed 1.5 hours which was perfect to check into my Icelandair flight for Rekyjevic. The flight did not supply meals, you had to buy them, but i was too excited to eat and arrived in sunny Rekyjevic (vic meaning harbour), and took the transfer bus to the Hilton, just out of town. I checked in and after a shower walked into town to explore. I stopped by at the 4th floor hotel on the way in as it was my supposed Intrepid meeting point the next day. The staff had no group booking and had not heard of Intrepid. maybe i got it wrong? Ate fish and chips for dinner near the old harbour and wound my way back up the hill to the hotel, checked my trip notes, yup, the hotel was correct for tomorrow.
So after a most yummy continental buffet breakfast and a long chat to a trez handsome French tourist who spoke perfect english, I checked out and wheeled my luggage to the 4th floor hotel. Alas, the drama unfolded! No booking, no idea, where was I to go now? I tried their internet to contact Intrepid but the message sending failed! Australia was still asleep so no one I could contact there! My phone had little credit left. I logged on to recharge my phone but there was an error! Looked up the London office, finally topped up my sim card via the phone which decided to work, and called. Oh, apparently the hotel had been changed and I should have been informed! FANTASTIC! Got my new details from the London office, thanked the helpful staff of the hotel who were Filipino, trotted off to the new guesthouse with stress levels falling rapidly. Finally got to the correct hotel, checked in and felt relieved and ready to tackle another day of exploring.
I saw a busker attract a huge crowd, juggling on a ladder, Wally from Australia, (can you believe it?) entertained the crowd and made more than a few kroner that day with his antics and witty banter - bizarre! I booked a snorkling trip in a fjord which is between the tectonic plates of North America and Europe on my last day in Iceland. Met up with the new group and took off the next day. Our leader Jens is our guide, historian, geologist, bus driver and local Icelander. We have seen massive waterfalls, walked behind one even! and lava flows, black sand, ash from the Grimsvotn recent eruption, volcanoes everywhere you look, steaming geothermal pools, fjords, geysers which are fun to watch, massive glaciers which are retreating every year due to global warming, white, blue and black lcebergs on a glacial lake which break off from the tongue and drift out to sea to be lost forever in the ocean, twisted metal which were once bridges buckled under the force of post volcanic flooding, daylight which goes on and on and midnight is still bright as midday and i took a photo to prove it!
Every day we drive amongst picturesque, perfect postcard landscapes, one side ice-capped mountains, on the other side beach or fjord, no native forests as the trees were chopped down for wood in the early days of settlement. Houses are made of timber or colourful corrugated iron with bright iron roofs of red, blue and green. We drove through a 6km tunnel and it was the first darkness i have seen here, i do miss the night time. Food is basic and expensive and even more expensive if eating at more gourmet places.
All the placenames are unprounceable, the language is very hard to foreign ears, luckily everyone speaks perfect english! We even stayed at a farm at the base of the Eyjafjallajökull volcano that erupted last year and caused chaos. Iceland is born of volcanoes as not only is it above the tectonic plates between Europe and Nth America, but is a volcanic hotspot and islands are born from underwater volcanoes and the shape of the island can change with each eruption. It is a paradise for geologists. The weather even if 8c - 10c during the day is mild if there is no wind, and you can wear a jacket and feel hot if walking uphill, not like back home!
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
London calling
I got home from a late shift at work via the Melbourne Wine Room. Then the packing began In earnest as I dillied and dallied as to what I should take seeing it was summer in old Blighty after all! I finished up at around 2am and tried to sleep.
Well the day finally arrived and lucky I looked at the long range weather forecast for London and promptly undid my bag and pulled out the summer clothes and added more temperate climate clothes; rain, showers, heavy rain, cloudy and a max of 19 degrees all week! So I will see London in all its grey glory, all week!
After a cycle along the beach where there was a long grey band of ash along the entire horizon, i checked my flight was still going to take off as scheduled. so far so good! Breakky at lil ox filled my insides with a warm burst of vanilla porridge with mapel syrup and a decaf coffee. The day was filled with this and that and before i knew it Hop was at the door ready to ferry me into town to catch skybus to Melbourne Airport. On arrival at the airport there was no long queues so my check in was super quick and so was customs clearance. I bought my Christmas brandy at duty free to pick up on my arrival home, so i better remember!
So after a long but dozey 14 hour flight to Doha in Qatar, i continued my journey after a 2 hour stopover and a long busride to the departure terminal, a big airport under construction. We continued our flight in a smaller plane with an Indian man sprawled out next to me snoozing using both arm rests so i could not retrieve my remote for the entertainment hub and had to sit on an angle as he took up half my leg room as well, bloody hell! Arrived in London a little late and got held up at immigration as there were only a couple of people checking passports while some abruptly shut shop for a break as the queue of passengers snaked around and around. A few people were detained like border patrol. Finally outa there and took the Heathrow xpress to Paddington as i thought it would be quicker than the tube, but in hindsight my £18 could have been put to better use. Got to Tooting Broadway on the Northern Line and settled into my new abode for the week, snoozed for an hour, showered and headed into Covent Garden, tired and Jetlagged to meet up with some friends i met in Japan last year. We ate at Wagamama which is still big here and after a couple of hours, felt like crap so wound my way home on the tube in a daze. Next day went to Clapham junction to meet some Galapagos friends for lunch. The station was invaded by girls dressed to the nines in their racing regalia and hats with feathers, and boys with champagne in both hands in top hats and tails, off to Ascot for some action, i guess on and off the track! I felt under dressed in my jeans and tshirt, but got over it and we had a 5 hour lunch with wine and then some more wine at a pub in waterloo station whilst the heavens opened and dumped buckets of rain onto the unfortunate commuters who actually ventured outside, then back home, and out again to wagamaga for dinner and home. Up and down, back and forth on the tube!
The following day was spent in Essex with my extended family meeting up for an all day lunch and i washed it all down with a glass or more of Bulmers pear cider, my new fave drink!
On my return to London i looked up what was on at the Tate Modern and there was a massive Miro exhibition, so out i headed again and indulged my senses and my little heart leapt for joy surrounded by many diverse and some massive Miro works, awesome! Then onto South kensington for dinner with Bev and Tony, old friends from Melb, and we had Thai which was so hot, i had to drink a lot of wine to compensate!!!! The next day I decided to take a ride on the London Eye like a real tourist and headed to Waterloo to queue up with the rest of the sheep who were herded towards the giant white wheel in 2 corralles. It took 30 mins to reach the entrance and i boarded the big white capsule. We went up and around very slowly taking in the sights of London and the bird's eye view was quite fascinating. The weather had cleared and blue sky and puffy cloud replaced the grey blanket which has covered the sky since I arrived. I met my friend Adam from my Galapagos trip and he decided to surprise me by trying to find me as i exited the eye instead of waiting for me on the steps of St Pauls. I heard my name called and it was surreal as i did not expect it. We headed off towards chinatown where he introduced me to Waxy O'Connor, a whimisical pub right out of a Harry Potter movie with several bars on several levels interconnected by a maze of stairs and passages, a tree in the centre and some random antique pieces like a confessional and old church seats etc. After a few drinks we took off to Borough where i discovered there is a big gourmet food market, but it was closed when we got there. I am going to check it out tomorrow. We then went on and after a couple more pubs ended up in an Indian restaurant walking thru hospital grounds somewhere in the back streets near London Bridge and a group of us had very nice meal, quite spicy and more authentic than the indian food back home. great to discover new places around town!
Well the day finally arrived and lucky I looked at the long range weather forecast for London and promptly undid my bag and pulled out the summer clothes and added more temperate climate clothes; rain, showers, heavy rain, cloudy and a max of 19 degrees all week! So I will see London in all its grey glory, all week!
After a cycle along the beach where there was a long grey band of ash along the entire horizon, i checked my flight was still going to take off as scheduled. so far so good! Breakky at lil ox filled my insides with a warm burst of vanilla porridge with mapel syrup and a decaf coffee. The day was filled with this and that and before i knew it Hop was at the door ready to ferry me into town to catch skybus to Melbourne Airport. On arrival at the airport there was no long queues so my check in was super quick and so was customs clearance. I bought my Christmas brandy at duty free to pick up on my arrival home, so i better remember!
So after a long but dozey 14 hour flight to Doha in Qatar, i continued my journey after a 2 hour stopover and a long busride to the departure terminal, a big airport under construction. We continued our flight in a smaller plane with an Indian man sprawled out next to me snoozing using both arm rests so i could not retrieve my remote for the entertainment hub and had to sit on an angle as he took up half my leg room as well, bloody hell! Arrived in London a little late and got held up at immigration as there were only a couple of people checking passports while some abruptly shut shop for a break as the queue of passengers snaked around and around. A few people were detained like border patrol. Finally outa there and took the Heathrow xpress to Paddington as i thought it would be quicker than the tube, but in hindsight my £18 could have been put to better use. Got to Tooting Broadway on the Northern Line and settled into my new abode for the week, snoozed for an hour, showered and headed into Covent Garden, tired and Jetlagged to meet up with some friends i met in Japan last year. We ate at Wagamama which is still big here and after a couple of hours, felt like crap so wound my way home on the tube in a daze. Next day went to Clapham junction to meet some Galapagos friends for lunch. The station was invaded by girls dressed to the nines in their racing regalia and hats with feathers, and boys with champagne in both hands in top hats and tails, off to Ascot for some action, i guess on and off the track! I felt under dressed in my jeans and tshirt, but got over it and we had a 5 hour lunch with wine and then some more wine at a pub in waterloo station whilst the heavens opened and dumped buckets of rain onto the unfortunate commuters who actually ventured outside, then back home, and out again to wagamaga for dinner and home. Up and down, back and forth on the tube!
The following day was spent in Essex with my extended family meeting up for an all day lunch and i washed it all down with a glass or more of Bulmers pear cider, my new fave drink!
On my return to London i looked up what was on at the Tate Modern and there was a massive Miro exhibition, so out i headed again and indulged my senses and my little heart leapt for joy surrounded by many diverse and some massive Miro works, awesome! Then onto South kensington for dinner with Bev and Tony, old friends from Melb, and we had Thai which was so hot, i had to drink a lot of wine to compensate!!!! The next day I decided to take a ride on the London Eye like a real tourist and headed to Waterloo to queue up with the rest of the sheep who were herded towards the giant white wheel in 2 corralles. It took 30 mins to reach the entrance and i boarded the big white capsule. We went up and around very slowly taking in the sights of London and the bird's eye view was quite fascinating. The weather had cleared and blue sky and puffy cloud replaced the grey blanket which has covered the sky since I arrived. I met my friend Adam from my Galapagos trip and he decided to surprise me by trying to find me as i exited the eye instead of waiting for me on the steps of St Pauls. I heard my name called and it was surreal as i did not expect it. We headed off towards chinatown where he introduced me to Waxy O'Connor, a whimisical pub right out of a Harry Potter movie with several bars on several levels interconnected by a maze of stairs and passages, a tree in the centre and some random antique pieces like a confessional and old church seats etc. After a few drinks we took off to Borough where i discovered there is a big gourmet food market, but it was closed when we got there. I am going to check it out tomorrow. We then went on and after a couple more pubs ended up in an Indian restaurant walking thru hospital grounds somewhere in the back streets near London Bridge and a group of us had very nice meal, quite spicy and more authentic than the indian food back home. great to discover new places around town!
Thursday, May 26, 2011
Peggy vs the volcano!
So, here i am, 3 weeks away from heading to the northern lights when a volcano decides to throw a spanner in the works, but i am sure by the time i leave the UK it will all settle down again (finger's crossed). I leave on the 16th June for London and on the 24th to Reykjavik.So dear followers, i will be armed with my ipad, cameras and sense of adventure as I head towards the land of the midnight sun. (must remember the eyeshades to sleep thru daylight!)Looking forward to glaciers, volcanoes, thermal springs, puffins and music as there is a lot of talent up there, another adventure awaits and i hope it does not disappoint.
Saturday, October 16, 2010
the final countdown
Here I sit at Narita airporrt, cappacinno in hand, awaiting my flight home. I am sad to leave to say the least but I tried to sleep in this morning knowing I will not get any sleep winging my way to sunny Perth. I spent the day in Harajuku in the back streets where i found an interesting art space with a labrinth of rooms and stairways filled with local illustrators works with free samples printed on postcards, they were varied in style but the manga style dominates. the place was buzzing as people explored the rooms filled with amazing artwork and placed stars on them if they liked them and filled out comment books. Great way to showcase your folio.
I finally found a yakatori place and sat amongst clouds of smoke eating my yakatori and rice as I was sat in the smoking section as there was no other room at the inn, so very unpleasant surroundings for my final meal in Tokyu! Near the hotel I went to General Nogis house and witnessed a traditional wedding. No one invited me! Such costumes, lush and traditional.
I headed back to the hotel to pick up my heaving bags and reluctantly headed to Shibuya for my final train journey. Saturday crowds made my journey a little difficult on the subway but I got to the Narita Express without difficulty and waited to board the train to the airport and that is that.
My final observations of Japan are: the people are very friendly and helpful; the vending machines are awesome as previously stated; the hotels are extremely clean and well run; the transport system is spot on for punctuality and also for the stopping at stations and the alignment of the doors with the gaps on the platform which makes for easy boarding; the english signage and announcements make it easy for us dumb foreigners; food is awesome; green tea heaven; bicycles rule; neon never looked so good; awesome views and beautiful scenery; great clean toilets with baby holders, optional flushing noise to disguise any untoward noise one may make sitting on the loo; just the fact that such a crowded city is so organised and easy to get around is amazing in itself; a great mix of history, modern life, traditional life, gadgets, fashion and shops, art and design, and more...
I finally found a yakatori place and sat amongst clouds of smoke eating my yakatori and rice as I was sat in the smoking section as there was no other room at the inn, so very unpleasant surroundings for my final meal in Tokyu! Near the hotel I went to General Nogis house and witnessed a traditional wedding. No one invited me! Such costumes, lush and traditional.
I headed back to the hotel to pick up my heaving bags and reluctantly headed to Shibuya for my final train journey. Saturday crowds made my journey a little difficult on the subway but I got to the Narita Express without difficulty and waited to board the train to the airport and that is that.
My final observations of Japan are: the people are very friendly and helpful; the vending machines are awesome as previously stated; the hotels are extremely clean and well run; the transport system is spot on for punctuality and also for the stopping at stations and the alignment of the doors with the gaps on the platform which makes for easy boarding; the english signage and announcements make it easy for us dumb foreigners; food is awesome; green tea heaven; bicycles rule; neon never looked so good; awesome views and beautiful scenery; great clean toilets with baby holders, optional flushing noise to disguise any untoward noise one may make sitting on the loo; just the fact that such a crowded city is so organised and easy to get around is amazing in itself; a great mix of history, modern life, traditional life, gadgets, fashion and shops, art and design, and more...
Friday, October 15, 2010
Fishy business in Tokyo!
Hi from Tokyo, my final night in this buzzing, neon metropolis. Yesterday after I ate my complimentary brekky of rice and fish and miso, I headed out to the famous Tsukiji Wholesale fish market where all the action starts around 4am the time the tuna gets auctioned. It is meant to be a real spectacle but as it is a serious business, only the first 140 tourists are allowed to witness the hard core bidding and if you are number 141 you are turned away. Funnily enough, I did not make the 4am start but did arrive at 10am, my sort of early... but some of the stalls were already shutting down for the day. Man it was the most awesome array of every sea creature imaginable, things I have never seen before, fish YES but sluggy things and what looked like giant mussles or shellfish, and every conceivable size of ocean creature from smaller than your thumbnail to as big as ME!
I wandered thru the stalls snapping away and nearly got run over by forklift trucks going in every direction in continuous streams, it was manic! The market was the size of both sheds at the Vic Market, maybe bigger, and filled with sea creatures. Now, I reckon the amount left over every day would be 10 times what the Vic market sells on a good day, so is this witness to the fact that we are overfishing our oceans, a moral dilemma to be sure. I had mixed emotions about this in the end.
I ate some sushi there, fresh from the ocean, in one of many tiny stalls on the outskirts where there is a general market, but quite small in comparison. It was expensive compared to the sushi I have eaten but I had to try it fresher than I will ever have it again my lifetime.
Then back on the tube to Akihabara, Electric Town, which sells all sorts of electrical gadgets and is the site of a manga info centre... which only consisted of a shop and some info and brochures on all the anime and manga museums in town... it was such a contrast to the fish markets!
Then onto Nihombashi to see a small kite museum which was above a restaurant and packed to the rafters with old hand painted paper kites preserved behind glass to newer and more fanciful ones hanging from every available spot, with some antique bits and pieces, and a wee shop. I got myself a box kite and hope it makes it home without breaking the bamboo frame. I love kites and if I had time could have booked in to a kite making class.
My by now weary legs then took me to Ginza to find a famous bronze lion near a big department store (of which there are many) which up til today had eluded me. I finally found it and was pleased, as today I met my friend Tomoko there. Ginza is the 5th Avenue of Tokyo with all the big names and an awesome Sony building which showcases new products... I wish I had a lot of money coz I could have easily spent a lot. I have somehow managed to go Italic on this keyboard, hey change is good!
I had a nanna nap at the hotel then headed out for dinner at a nearby station, and had tempura and rice and miso for under $10, something rare in this country... then back to base. I had a long soak in the bath and my sore legs thanked me and I hit the sack.
Today I hit Roppongi, the night spot area but during the day. There are many art museums there but do you think any were open at 10am? I am slow to learn no one opens b4 11am here and stays open til 9pm, so getting up early to get a start is not such a good idea. I walked more and saw a design exhibition and headed back to Ginza to meet Tomoko by that ol' bronze lion!
Spent a nice day eating seeing the Imperial Palace which is the Emperor's residence, losing my lens cap to the big camera and retracing my footsteps to Lunch where we banged on the door so the chef would let us in and found it, and then out of Tokyo to the burbs for some green tea cake and a tofu dinner in a restaurant which just makes Tofu stuff, interesting textures and flavours. My green tea adventures are coming to an end, only tomorrow til 3pm and then I head to Narita airport and head homewards... I am sad to leave this crazy place but come if you can, it is really worth the experience!
I wandered thru the stalls snapping away and nearly got run over by forklift trucks going in every direction in continuous streams, it was manic! The market was the size of both sheds at the Vic Market, maybe bigger, and filled with sea creatures. Now, I reckon the amount left over every day would be 10 times what the Vic market sells on a good day, so is this witness to the fact that we are overfishing our oceans, a moral dilemma to be sure. I had mixed emotions about this in the end.
I ate some sushi there, fresh from the ocean, in one of many tiny stalls on the outskirts where there is a general market, but quite small in comparison. It was expensive compared to the sushi I have eaten but I had to try it fresher than I will ever have it again my lifetime.
Then back on the tube to Akihabara, Electric Town, which sells all sorts of electrical gadgets and is the site of a manga info centre... which only consisted of a shop and some info and brochures on all the anime and manga museums in town... it was such a contrast to the fish markets!
Then onto Nihombashi to see a small kite museum which was above a restaurant and packed to the rafters with old hand painted paper kites preserved behind glass to newer and more fanciful ones hanging from every available spot, with some antique bits and pieces, and a wee shop. I got myself a box kite and hope it makes it home without breaking the bamboo frame. I love kites and if I had time could have booked in to a kite making class.
My by now weary legs then took me to Ginza to find a famous bronze lion near a big department store (of which there are many) which up til today had eluded me. I finally found it and was pleased, as today I met my friend Tomoko there. Ginza is the 5th Avenue of Tokyo with all the big names and an awesome Sony building which showcases new products... I wish I had a lot of money coz I could have easily spent a lot. I have somehow managed to go Italic on this keyboard, hey change is good!
I had a nanna nap at the hotel then headed out for dinner at a nearby station, and had tempura and rice and miso for under $10, something rare in this country... then back to base. I had a long soak in the bath and my sore legs thanked me and I hit the sack.
Today I hit Roppongi, the night spot area but during the day. There are many art museums there but do you think any were open at 10am? I am slow to learn no one opens b4 11am here and stays open til 9pm, so getting up early to get a start is not such a good idea. I walked more and saw a design exhibition and headed back to Ginza to meet Tomoko by that ol' bronze lion!
Spent a nice day eating seeing the Imperial Palace which is the Emperor's residence, losing my lens cap to the big camera and retracing my footsteps to Lunch where we banged on the door so the chef would let us in and found it, and then out of Tokyo to the burbs for some green tea cake and a tofu dinner in a restaurant which just makes Tofu stuff, interesting textures and flavours. My green tea adventures are coming to an end, only tomorrow til 3pm and then I head to Narita airport and head homewards... I am sad to leave this crazy place but come if you can, it is really worth the experience!
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Tokyu
Yesterday I also saw the Philip Starke sculpture of the golden turd... on the river in Asakusa, it is the rather large golden flame on its side which if you see it you will recognise it, but it has been lovingly dubbed the former. Last nite I met with most of my gang for dinner and then we hit the bowling alley for a game. I did pretty badly but it was great fun anyway, then to Shibuya for a drink and mingle with the crowds at that large pedestrian crossing.
Today went to studio Ghibli in Mitaka and it was really a wonderland, it is meant to be visual and tactile and suitable for children of all ages including me... there are things to touch, a zoetrope of Ghibli characters, flip books, working drawings, small animated sequences, short films, and a metal giant on the roof garden, it was truly amazing and the gift shop was wall to wall people buying souvenirs and I had to wait my turn, Totoros in hand, giving my visa card a heart attack again... oh well.
I met Mariko from Melbourne and we had a nice day out wandering around shops, eating green tea iced donuts, lunch, coffee, green tea macaroons, green tea chocolate etc. I am happy in the land of green tea everything. My hotel is good, free bottled water in the lobby, breakfast vouchers (no other hotel provided breakfast) and english speaking staff who are extremely helpful. Oh and a coin laundry to clean up my act which was wonderful. Such basic pleasures when one is away from home.
Tokyo is amazing as I said, and being out at nite is so very different to during the day. Did I mention that there are vending machines all over Japan that sell all sorts of booze, tea, canned coffee, hot and cold and soft drinks on the street corners, at stations, in hotels, everywhere, can u imagine that happening back home? Oh and the kids don't seem to abuse the system and buy beer or mixed drinks from the machine.
Bicycles are the go, on the footpath among pedestrians, on the roads, going either way, both ways, who cares? The drivers are patient and hardly use their horns and no one except me j-walks or crosses b4 the little man turns green even if there is no car in sight, except me! The people are mostly helpful even if they do not speak English and are very kind to tourists. The subway system is a maze of corridors and stairs, not may escallators so dragging around heavy luggage is a chore and not good for my back. Have been spending a lot this week as my last week here and collecting lots of paper: maps, tickets, interesting brochures and small books, so that adds to the weight of the luggage. Only 2 full days left and then head to Narita airport for my flight home. It will be a challenge on a Saturday getting to Shibuya and finding the airport express as it is a giant station and as usual, up and down and up again on foot, along travellators, to the platform. The scale of things here is BIG and BIGGER!
Off to find some dinner now. Arregato!
Today went to studio Ghibli in Mitaka and it was really a wonderland, it is meant to be visual and tactile and suitable for children of all ages including me... there are things to touch, a zoetrope of Ghibli characters, flip books, working drawings, small animated sequences, short films, and a metal giant on the roof garden, it was truly amazing and the gift shop was wall to wall people buying souvenirs and I had to wait my turn, Totoros in hand, giving my visa card a heart attack again... oh well.
I met Mariko from Melbourne and we had a nice day out wandering around shops, eating green tea iced donuts, lunch, coffee, green tea macaroons, green tea chocolate etc. I am happy in the land of green tea everything. My hotel is good, free bottled water in the lobby, breakfast vouchers (no other hotel provided breakfast) and english speaking staff who are extremely helpful. Oh and a coin laundry to clean up my act which was wonderful. Such basic pleasures when one is away from home.
Tokyo is amazing as I said, and being out at nite is so very different to during the day. Did I mention that there are vending machines all over Japan that sell all sorts of booze, tea, canned coffee, hot and cold and soft drinks on the street corners, at stations, in hotels, everywhere, can u imagine that happening back home? Oh and the kids don't seem to abuse the system and buy beer or mixed drinks from the machine.
Bicycles are the go, on the footpath among pedestrians, on the roads, going either way, both ways, who cares? The drivers are patient and hardly use their horns and no one except me j-walks or crosses b4 the little man turns green even if there is no car in sight, except me! The people are mostly helpful even if they do not speak English and are very kind to tourists. The subway system is a maze of corridors and stairs, not may escallators so dragging around heavy luggage is a chore and not good for my back. Have been spending a lot this week as my last week here and collecting lots of paper: maps, tickets, interesting brochures and small books, so that adds to the weight of the luggage. Only 2 full days left and then head to Narita airport for my flight home. It will be a challenge on a Saturday getting to Shibuya and finding the airport express as it is a giant station and as usual, up and down and up again on foot, along travellators, to the platform. The scale of things here is BIG and BIGGER!
Off to find some dinner now. Arregato!
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Mt Fuji is a spoilsport!
We arrived at the ryokan in the hills after a bullet train and local train and bus ride only to take the bus again up a winding road, up hill, a pirate ship (complete with pirate!) across a senic lake, a steep cablecar ride and a venicular to a sulphurous smoking spot in the mountains where the speciality is boiling eggs wot come up in crates by flying fox from below in the hot water springs... we ate the boiled eggs after peeling off the blackened skin and agreed, they tasted like boiled eggs, and the whole place smelt of egg!
Mt Fuji was nowhere to be seen as i took a pic in a complete whiteout... could not see my hand in front of me with the smoke of the hot springs and the cloud which descended. Then we did the trip down in reverse only taking a switchback train down the hill instead of the pirate ship back to our station. All that travelling for 45 minutes and no view... we were tired and disappointed. Back at our digs we had a very splendid meal laid out for us in a million different bowls and plates. I pity the dish hand as he had to wash everything x 12 so it amounted to a decent number after we were thru.
Then we all braved the onsen, a public hot bath where you have to wash and scrub yourself first and jump in a hot steaming pool of spring water, it was too hot for me and I did not last long, even in the outside pool! I felt hot and sweaty after I rinsed off and went back to my room, not refreshed at all.
Then disaster struck. I went thru my shots on my camera and suddenly it went from koya san to singapore... where was Osaka? Oh my god, not one image was on my camera of my first experience of Japan. I had backed up my photos to a memory stick on the tour guides PC and must have somehow deleted them instead of copying and pasting. I felt ill, so disappointed and did not sleep well.
In the morning we rushed off again (as is the norm on these trips) after a buffet of Japanese weird stuff and some eggs and bread and tinned fruit and I asked our guide if I could check my memory stick to see if the images made it on my backup. But as we were in a hurry I had to wait, back on the local bus, the local train and the bullet train to Tokyo. We saw Mt Fuji in the distance as cameras were pressed to the window. But the train goes so fast you barely release the shutter and a building or pole is in the middle of the pic or it is just a blur.
We eventually arrived in bustling Tokyo at Shinagawa station and as luck would have it our hotel was just across the road, as have been all our hotels on this tour. We could not check in but left our luggage (mine weighing nearly double already) and I grabbed our guide's computer and frantically searched my backup. Nope nothing there, so I opened all the folders and lo and behold there were the missing pics withing 2 other folders... I nearly jumped for joy and had a grin like the Cheshire cat the rest of the morning. We were let loose to explore Tokyo and I went to Shibuya, the worlds busiest pedestrian crossing as seen in Lost in Translation, and the neons at night in the area apparently were the inspiration for Blade Runner. But it was daylight on my first visit and I have since been there at night, really bright, loud, and crowded and a great vibe.
Then on to Harajuku where there was a lovely park and shrine and crazy shopping street filled with tourists and kids, some cosplay kids dressed as fluro french maids and people young and old in kimonos. Then we headed to the Government Buildings near Shinjuku, the busiest station in the world, which have 2 towers and let people up to the 45th floor to get awesome views of Tokyo from all angles and it was free! We were meant to see Mt Fuji from here as well but as usual it was shrouded in cloud... damn you elusive Mountain (fist pounding the air)... until we meet again! We had our last group meal and sang karaoke til they politely told us to stop and piss off, and looked for bars to party on, but being Monday nite everything was closing by 11pm or 12, so I went back to pack as I was moving hotels the next morning.
So am now racing here and there on and off the intricate subway maze, taking lots of photos, meeting lots of friends, both old and new, and still enjoying the weird and wonderful tastes, sounds and sights of Japan.
Tomorrow Studio Ghibli and am very excited to see that with Mariko, a girl that used to work with me at the hotel. I have til Saturday to see as much as I can and eat as much as I can especially green tea ice cream! Over and out from crazy but awesome Tokyo!
Mt Fuji was nowhere to be seen as i took a pic in a complete whiteout... could not see my hand in front of me with the smoke of the hot springs and the cloud which descended. Then we did the trip down in reverse only taking a switchback train down the hill instead of the pirate ship back to our station. All that travelling for 45 minutes and no view... we were tired and disappointed. Back at our digs we had a very splendid meal laid out for us in a million different bowls and plates. I pity the dish hand as he had to wash everything x 12 so it amounted to a decent number after we were thru.
Then we all braved the onsen, a public hot bath where you have to wash and scrub yourself first and jump in a hot steaming pool of spring water, it was too hot for me and I did not last long, even in the outside pool! I felt hot and sweaty after I rinsed off and went back to my room, not refreshed at all.
Then disaster struck. I went thru my shots on my camera and suddenly it went from koya san to singapore... where was Osaka? Oh my god, not one image was on my camera of my first experience of Japan. I had backed up my photos to a memory stick on the tour guides PC and must have somehow deleted them instead of copying and pasting. I felt ill, so disappointed and did not sleep well.
In the morning we rushed off again (as is the norm on these trips) after a buffet of Japanese weird stuff and some eggs and bread and tinned fruit and I asked our guide if I could check my memory stick to see if the images made it on my backup. But as we were in a hurry I had to wait, back on the local bus, the local train and the bullet train to Tokyo. We saw Mt Fuji in the distance as cameras were pressed to the window. But the train goes so fast you barely release the shutter and a building or pole is in the middle of the pic or it is just a blur.
We eventually arrived in bustling Tokyo at Shinagawa station and as luck would have it our hotel was just across the road, as have been all our hotels on this tour. We could not check in but left our luggage (mine weighing nearly double already) and I grabbed our guide's computer and frantically searched my backup. Nope nothing there, so I opened all the folders and lo and behold there were the missing pics withing 2 other folders... I nearly jumped for joy and had a grin like the Cheshire cat the rest of the morning. We were let loose to explore Tokyo and I went to Shibuya, the worlds busiest pedestrian crossing as seen in Lost in Translation, and the neons at night in the area apparently were the inspiration for Blade Runner. But it was daylight on my first visit and I have since been there at night, really bright, loud, and crowded and a great vibe.
Then on to Harajuku where there was a lovely park and shrine and crazy shopping street filled with tourists and kids, some cosplay kids dressed as fluro french maids and people young and old in kimonos. Then we headed to the Government Buildings near Shinjuku, the busiest station in the world, which have 2 towers and let people up to the 45th floor to get awesome views of Tokyo from all angles and it was free! We were meant to see Mt Fuji from here as well but as usual it was shrouded in cloud... damn you elusive Mountain (fist pounding the air)... until we meet again! We had our last group meal and sang karaoke til they politely told us to stop and piss off, and looked for bars to party on, but being Monday nite everything was closing by 11pm or 12, so I went back to pack as I was moving hotels the next morning.
So am now racing here and there on and off the intricate subway maze, taking lots of photos, meeting lots of friends, both old and new, and still enjoying the weird and wonderful tastes, sounds and sights of Japan.
Tomorrow Studio Ghibli and am very excited to see that with Mariko, a girl that used to work with me at the hotel. I have til Saturday to see as much as I can and eat as much as I can especially green tea ice cream! Over and out from crazy but awesome Tokyo!
Saturday, October 9, 2010
kimonos in kyoto
After the emotional visit to the peace park in Hiroshima we headed by train and ferry to Myajima Is to see the floating tory gate which is famous and if i could post a pic you would know it, it is big and orange... so we landed on the island and I opted to climb to the top of the mountain to see the view rather than take a cable car. Myself and 3 others painfully climbed up steep steps for 45 mins to see a wonderful view of all of Japan bathed in glorious sunshine and then had to walk down again,. Wild sacred deer roam the streets among pilgrims and tourists and look cute. The island is beautiful and we watched the sunset thru the tori gate before we set sail for Hiroshima.
The following day we had to leave again to catch a train to Kyoto where we did not waste any time and went to a site of 1000 tori gates. I think I have seen enough of them to keep me happy for the rest of my life. We returned to town and had sushi at a sushi train and there were several chefs moulding rice and slicing fish to keep the conveyor belt full at every point. There was so much variety it was delicious. After we ate our fill we split up and I headed to the Nishiki food markets, a long undercover stretch of interesting dried and fresh foods and other random stuff and then the Kyoto Manga museum which was fascinating, I went onto the Gion area for dinner and spot geisha, which I didnt. Poor girls have people waiting with cameras and tripods set up to catch them flitting around, like papparazzi, and I have heard people literally stampede towards them when they are spotted with flash bulbs flashing. eek what a life!
From there we had japanese bbq and went to an all you can eat and drink place for 1.5 hours where you have to stop and leave after your time is up. You get to cook it all yourself over a scorching grill in the centre of the table and there was a vast array of meats and seafoods, salads and drinks. then we hit the sodden streets of Kyoto with umbrellas in hand and got back to the hotel in the pouring rain.
Man the rain did not stop and has been relentless since yesterday. It is not fun being soggy and siteseeing in the grey, cloudy atmosphere totally wet thru. However we managed to see the a shogun castle, Nijo with nightingale floors... they squeak when you walk over them and warn of intruders... then we went to the famous Golden temple but it was literally pouring so hard to get the classic photo we all wanted, so we trod along the path to the gardens and tried to keep ourselves dry along with several hundred other people trudging along. There are many Japanese tourists and pilgrims as well as the other bloody tourists. Another bus ride took us to a zen garden where we were told it represented birth to death by placement of stones, raked gravel and trees... we were let loose after that huddling under umbrellas not sure what to do as it was not a day to stay outdoors. I opted to go to Kyoto station and it is so big，like a mini city, with many floors of shops and food that I got lost and the maze of underground arcades disorientated me completely, so was in a bad mood after I finally found my way out and back to the hotel. Sake and dinner followed and another nite trip to the Gion area for a last wander up the narrow streets Geisha spotting, but my score is still 0.
Early start tomorrow to head to Mt Fuji and an onsen, a public japanese bath... hmmmmm....but it is still raining and the famous mountain may hide from us which will be really bad news... then onto Tokyo
The following day we had to leave again to catch a train to Kyoto where we did not waste any time and went to a site of 1000 tori gates. I think I have seen enough of them to keep me happy for the rest of my life. We returned to town and had sushi at a sushi train and there were several chefs moulding rice and slicing fish to keep the conveyor belt full at every point. There was so much variety it was delicious. After we ate our fill we split up and I headed to the Nishiki food markets, a long undercover stretch of interesting dried and fresh foods and other random stuff and then the Kyoto Manga museum which was fascinating, I went onto the Gion area for dinner and spot geisha, which I didnt. Poor girls have people waiting with cameras and tripods set up to catch them flitting around, like papparazzi, and I have heard people literally stampede towards them when they are spotted with flash bulbs flashing. eek what a life!
From there we had japanese bbq and went to an all you can eat and drink place for 1.5 hours where you have to stop and leave after your time is up. You get to cook it all yourself over a scorching grill in the centre of the table and there was a vast array of meats and seafoods, salads and drinks. then we hit the sodden streets of Kyoto with umbrellas in hand and got back to the hotel in the pouring rain.
Man the rain did not stop and has been relentless since yesterday. It is not fun being soggy and siteseeing in the grey, cloudy atmosphere totally wet thru. However we managed to see the a shogun castle, Nijo with nightingale floors... they squeak when you walk over them and warn of intruders... then we went to the famous Golden temple but it was literally pouring so hard to get the classic photo we all wanted, so we trod along the path to the gardens and tried to keep ourselves dry along with several hundred other people trudging along. There are many Japanese tourists and pilgrims as well as the other bloody tourists. Another bus ride took us to a zen garden where we were told it represented birth to death by placement of stones, raked gravel and trees... we were let loose after that huddling under umbrellas not sure what to do as it was not a day to stay outdoors. I opted to go to Kyoto station and it is so big，like a mini city, with many floors of shops and food that I got lost and the maze of underground arcades disorientated me completely, so was in a bad mood after I finally found my way out and back to the hotel. Sake and dinner followed and another nite trip to the Gion area for a last wander up the narrow streets Geisha spotting, but my score is still 0.
Early start tomorrow to head to Mt Fuji and an onsen, a public japanese bath... hmmmmm....but it is still raining and the famous mountain may hide from us which will be really bad news... then onto Tokyo
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
on tour
Hi again, from electric Osaka we took a tube, train and cable car up the mountains to a famous monastary Koya-san which a bhuddist saint established. It is a tranquil place with temples and forest so green, with tall towering trees and moss covered rocks and gravestones. Stayed with the monks who gave us a vegetarian dinner with many tastes and textures and colours to devour. I walked thru the cemetary at dusk and saw some beautiful ancient and modern monuments to the dead, it stretches for about a km in the woods. Pilgrims come to pay their respects and the town is considered holy. After the worst nites sleep on a futon with a tiny pillow filled with dried peas, I spent the night trying to sleep but was up every hour too hot, too uncomfortable, too tired. The sleeping mat and bag on the Inca trail was more comfortable let me tell you. I awoke looking less than rested and we headed back to Osaka the same way we came and boarded a bullet train bound for Hiroshima.
On arrival at Hiroshima we were set loose to explore and I got myself and another girl lost as the maps were not that clear and I was still in a sleep depraved state. Anyway we got to the contemporary art museum and the manga library and met the rest of the crew for okonomayki Hiroshima style which is quite different to the style we are used to. It is cooked in layers with the addition of udon or chinese noodles. I washed mine down with a glass of saki... then I had to go to bed as I was dead on my feet.
This morning we took a tram to the Abomb site which was such a moving experience. We had a guide whose motherwitnessed the explosion and an in utero survivor and went to the peace museum. It was horrific reading about the events that led to the bomb and the devastation and utter suffering the victims endured. I cried, I could not help it. Truly shocking and everyone should come to see the museum and strive for nuclear free world. Some images were stomach churning, men women children disfigured and burnt, the accounts and drawings from survivors, I cannot imagine going through such Hell, and that is what it must have been. The town is dedicated to peace and preservation now. We soon head to Myajima Is to see some beautiful scenery and deer, a relief from a harrowing morning.
On arrival at Hiroshima we were set loose to explore and I got myself and another girl lost as the maps were not that clear and I was still in a sleep depraved state. Anyway we got to the contemporary art museum and the manga library and met the rest of the crew for okonomayki Hiroshima style which is quite different to the style we are used to. It is cooked in layers with the addition of udon or chinese noodles. I washed mine down with a glass of saki... then I had to go to bed as I was dead on my feet.
This morning we took a tram to the Abomb site which was such a moving experience. We had a guide whose motherwitnessed the explosion and an in utero survivor and went to the peace museum. It was horrific reading about the events that led to the bomb and the devastation and utter suffering the victims endured. I cried, I could not help it. Truly shocking and everyone should come to see the museum and strive for nuclear free world. Some images were stomach churning, men women children disfigured and burnt, the accounts and drawings from survivors, I cannot imagine going through such Hell, and that is what it must have been. The town is dedicated to peace and preservation now. We soon head to Myajima Is to see some beautiful scenery and deer, a relief from a harrowing morning.
Sunday, October 3, 2010
Osaka
Hi from Japan. After an awfully boring flight from Singapore to Shanghai I was dog tired as did not sleep on the basic plane but thank goodness no engine fires after take off from Changi. After clearing immigration and customs even while in transit, i snoozed in the lounge of the hotel til the next flight to Osaka. Arrived to dreary grey skies and rain. Alighted the city bound train for Namba and caught a subway to the hotel. Now the heavens decided to open and me and my luggage were out walking the streets, soggy map in hand, no shelter at all, grappling with finding my wee umbrella in my very full bag...and finally entered the lobby of the hotel leaving a river of water in my wake.
I stumbled into bed as had been travelling for 15 hours or more with no sleep and very little food in my belly. The plane food was kinda grey looking chicken on a bed of dry noodles so I politely declined. After a snooze, showered and headed outside where it was comparitively dry now. It is humid but not as hot as Singers thankgoodness. I ventured down Dotombori street brightly lit and pedestrians all looking for food or slot machines. I headed to the nearest Okonomiyaki restaurant and indulged in a yummy seafood one cooked in front of me and a glass of plum wine on the rocks. After i ate my fill i ventured out into the night and explored the bustling alleyways and streets like a neon extravaganza. I was planning to find some green tea ice cream but failed in my quest. All TV in Japanese so hard to watch.
The following morning I awoke early and was out by 8.30am planning to head to the Kuromon Markets and walk til my legs stopped working. A great disappointment as by 9am not much had opened except a few fish and vegie stalls but most things were shut. So i walked into the shopping district, most things were still shut, nothing opens til 10am or 11am. So I walked the entire length of Ebisubashi street, one long under cover shopping mall that goes for kilometres. I found a great Loft, cool department store and a store with a giant kit kat atop. I raced in to find my elusive green tea kit kat but still cannot find any. BooHoo! People cycle here on the footpaths and malls and there are bikes everywhere, my kinda town. Old ladies and kids alike peddle and park.
My legs needed a break to sushi train for lunch with the freshest sushi being made and plonked onto the conveyor belt. Now am going to rest as I meet my group at 6pm and then want to go on the giant ferris wheel which operates at nite just like everything else here. Tomorrow we leave for Kyoto early I am told, so my next report will be there. So tonite I hit the bright lights of Osaka for the last time. Over and out...
I stumbled into bed as had been travelling for 15 hours or more with no sleep and very little food in my belly. The plane food was kinda grey looking chicken on a bed of dry noodles so I politely declined. After a snooze, showered and headed outside where it was comparitively dry now. It is humid but not as hot as Singers thankgoodness. I ventured down Dotombori street brightly lit and pedestrians all looking for food or slot machines. I headed to the nearest Okonomiyaki restaurant and indulged in a yummy seafood one cooked in front of me and a glass of plum wine on the rocks. After i ate my fill i ventured out into the night and explored the bustling alleyways and streets like a neon extravaganza. I was planning to find some green tea ice cream but failed in my quest. All TV in Japanese so hard to watch.
The following morning I awoke early and was out by 8.30am planning to head to the Kuromon Markets and walk til my legs stopped working. A great disappointment as by 9am not much had opened except a few fish and vegie stalls but most things were shut. So i walked into the shopping district, most things were still shut, nothing opens til 10am or 11am. So I walked the entire length of Ebisubashi street, one long under cover shopping mall that goes for kilometres. I found a great Loft, cool department store and a store with a giant kit kat atop. I raced in to find my elusive green tea kit kat but still cannot find any. BooHoo! People cycle here on the footpaths and malls and there are bikes everywhere, my kinda town. Old ladies and kids alike peddle and park.
My legs needed a break to sushi train for lunch with the freshest sushi being made and plonked onto the conveyor belt. Now am going to rest as I meet my group at 6pm and then want to go on the giant ferris wheel which operates at nite just like everything else here. Tomorrow we leave for Kyoto early I am told, so my next report will be there. So tonite I hit the bright lights of Osaka for the last time. Over and out...
Friday, October 1, 2010
farewell Singapore
So today is my final day in Singers and it is raining. Not planning on doing too much as long flight ahead overnight with transfer in Shanghai. Still not looking forward to getting on a plane. But today will head out to eat more interesting food and take it easy tonite. I got my dates wrong and actually thought i had another day here but luckily looked at my ticket this morning and realised my flight leaves in the wee hours of tomorrow, so tonight to Changi.
Eaten some great foods here and hope to share some photos soon. Not sure where i will get internet access in Osaka so cannot promise. There is such a mixture of authentic Asian cuisines here and so hard to choose. It is a clean and organized city. A great place to visit and the lifestyle is good if you can afford to live here. This was my relaxing part of the trip so it will be pretty full on from now on and the adventure will really begin.
Eaten some great foods here and hope to share some photos soon. Not sure where i will get internet access in Osaka so cannot promise. There is such a mixture of authentic Asian cuisines here and so hard to choose. It is a clean and organized city. A great place to visit and the lifestyle is good if you can afford to live here. This was my relaxing part of the trip so it will be pretty full on from now on and the adventure will really begin.
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
singapore sling
Hi all, Singapore is hot, humid and happening! I arrived in the evening to the loud whine of the F1 Grand Prix virtually outside Kim's appartment window. You could not hear yourself think let alone talk, but the view from the penthouse balcony was pretty damn good. The humidity is not working for me. Yes, as usual I have been ill for the past 3 days and even fainted in the lift and had to see a doctor... holidays hey! But am on the road to recovery and acclimatizing slowly. Went to see my grandfather's grave or memorial in Singapore. It was dedicated to all the Anzacs and other troops who sacrificed their lives for their country and was very neat and well kept. I have also been on a lovely bike ride along the east coast with tankers lining the horizon as far as the eye can see, so amazing that they rely on the outside world for all their produce and material goods. The beach looked pristine but was told it was not suitable for swimming at all. The whole place is high rise with not a lot of colonial architecture surviving the massive ongoing development. Will visit Raffles as it is a landmark, High Tea anyone?
The food here looks glorious, so much variety and colour and the cakes are to die for. But i have yet to sample any as been living on boiled rice, toast and dry bikkies but am heading out today to give my taste buds a real good workout. Green tea cake, ice cream everything, chilli crab, indian food, chinese dim sum, Arab street all yet to be explored. Been to a great shop which sells all sorts of baking goods and cake decorating stuff. The shopping malls are cool in both ways, chic and air conditioned... am trying not to buy as will have to lug my bags around Japan and don't want to weigh myself down. Maybe should have stopped off on the way home instead... anyway too late now.
My friends have been fantastic and lucky me to be taken care of so well. My flight to Osaka leaves Sunday on East China Airways so am not looking forward to flying again via Shanghai. I guess my next installment will be from Osaka if I can find a computer to tap away on, so until then, I will have a Singapore Sling or 2 and shelter from the heat in the airconditioned malls and cinemas and restaurants... what a hard life hey? Take care all.
The food here looks glorious, so much variety and colour and the cakes are to die for. But i have yet to sample any as been living on boiled rice, toast and dry bikkies but am heading out today to give my taste buds a real good workout. Green tea cake, ice cream everything, chilli crab, indian food, chinese dim sum, Arab street all yet to be explored. Been to a great shop which sells all sorts of baking goods and cake decorating stuff. The shopping malls are cool in both ways, chic and air conditioned... am trying not to buy as will have to lug my bags around Japan and don't want to weigh myself down. Maybe should have stopped off on the way home instead... anyway too late now.
My friends have been fantastic and lucky me to be taken care of so well. My flight to Osaka leaves Sunday on East China Airways so am not looking forward to flying again via Shanghai. I guess my next installment will be from Osaka if I can find a computer to tap away on, so until then, I will have a Singapore Sling or 2 and shelter from the heat in the airconditioned malls and cinemas and restaurants... what a hard life hey? Take care all.
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Getting ready for the Asian Invasion
Hi friends, so I am taking off again for another adventure, this time with an Asian accent rather than Espanole... and it will be another cultural highlight in my life. I am firstly heading to steamy Singapore to visit Kim and KJ and Philip and eat some awesome food and visit the war memorial where my grandfather has a plaque as he is buried somewhere there as he was a war casuality. Then onto awesome Japan arriving in Osaka via Shanghai on some possibly scary Chinese airline and then will wind my way to Tokyo via Kyoto, Mt Fuji, Hiroshima and more wonderful places with some new friends. In Tokyo I will spend 5 hectic days in the frantic city on my own and with a couple of old friends and my neighbour Totoro!
So I expect I will find some computers to report on my new experiences and hopefully be able to post images here as well as on Facebook.
I hope some of you follow me and comment as I won't feel so far away then.
the travelling pegzberry
So I expect I will find some computers to report on my new experiences and hopefully be able to post images here as well as on Facebook.
I hope some of you follow me and comment as I won't feel so far away then.
the travelling pegzberry
Monday, October 12, 2009
After Machu Picchu
How can you top the hike to the City in the clouds? We were in Ollytantambo after the train took us back from Aguas Callientes, our hostel had a lovely leafy courtyard and a crazy puppy. Most were resting after the gruelling trek and I was the only taker to see some Inka ruins just in the town in the dark and drizzle, up more stairs, my sore legs not thanking me at all. I was not missing out on anything this trip. We left the next day back to Cusco to catch up on some rest and shopping.
After our final meal in Cuzco which have all been excellent, we got a bus to Lake Titikaka and we stayed in Puno. The lake was soooo large and apparently in the shape of a puma catching a rabbit, and is 270m deep and the second highest navagable lake in the world. We pottered around Puno and had dinner and the next day were taken by cyclos to the dock where we got into a boat to take us to Uros floating reed islands to meet the people who live on the lake. Appárently they fled from the Spanish or the Inkas and built these floating islands, boats and huts made out of the plentiful reeds, with small fish farms attached, which can be added onto of chopped if families have a bone to pick with each other... flexible lifestyles... but the youth are going to uni in town and do not return so a uniqe way of life is coming to a halt and all that will be left is for tourists... how sad. They have small solar panels to watch tv and for some lighting but build clay ovens to cook outdoors and make handicrafts to sell, they bartyr with townsfolk with fish for fruit and vegies etc... so simple, and females dress in very colourful clothing with their dark black hair cascading down in 2 thick plaits tied with colourful pom poms, the bigger and brighter the pom pom the more available the girl, dark and small are for married ladies.
From there we went to another island where we had to climb over and across to lunch, our highest lunch spot at around 3700m, with a view of the lake. The men there knit as the women spin the wool and the designs are just fantastic, wish i could have bought some stuff to bring home but did not take much cash. Then back to puno.
The next day we got another coach for a long ride to Bolivia around the lake, we had a windy road to contend with after crossing the border and my stomach went out of kilter and I felt so sick... but we got to bustling La Paz which was nestled in among mountains and glaciers with hoardes of people and skinny cobbled streets crammed with vendors. We went to the Witches market where they sell all sorts of dried foetuses of llamas, herbs, potions, charms, talismans etc... all very weird, and then to the touristy craft shops before dinner.
The next day we went out of town to another ruin, pre inka and we were by then all tired, unable to take in the information the guide was gushing, and must have looked a bit sheepish. We had lunch and returned to the hotel as it was our last night. So there you have it... all over, and now I am in Argentina after a long wait in Lima for my connecting flight and have walked my legs off exploring the colourful, clean European like city, which is very large. I went to the zoo which was great and saw the animals i did not see in the Amazon, and the botanical gardens full of cats, they are everywhere... what is with that? Then I hit La Boca with its colourful tin houses and tango spontaniously happening everywhere in the tourist zone, and i walked for 5 hours through to the trendy shops and malls which was a huge contrast... my legs were so sore i got a cab back and went for a lovely swim in the hotel pool... the night life here goes on and people are everywhere, dining and drinking and dancing... it is a very cool and sophisticated city and is very European in feel. Great food, from all corners of the globe, wine, beers, cakes, chocolates.... a gourmet´s delight. They do a great caramel sauce which is in and on everything, and you can buy it in big buckets... hmmmm.....
Tomorrow is my last day and i have booked in a massage in the day spa downstairs in anticipation of my very long flight home... cannot believe this trip is over, but i have had an absolute amazing experience here and will definately recommend it and hope to return soon. Thanks for reading my blog, hope it was interesting... c u back home... P
After our final meal in Cuzco which have all been excellent, we got a bus to Lake Titikaka and we stayed in Puno. The lake was soooo large and apparently in the shape of a puma catching a rabbit, and is 270m deep and the second highest navagable lake in the world. We pottered around Puno and had dinner and the next day were taken by cyclos to the dock where we got into a boat to take us to Uros floating reed islands to meet the people who live on the lake. Appárently they fled from the Spanish or the Inkas and built these floating islands, boats and huts made out of the plentiful reeds, with small fish farms attached, which can be added onto of chopped if families have a bone to pick with each other... flexible lifestyles... but the youth are going to uni in town and do not return so a uniqe way of life is coming to a halt and all that will be left is for tourists... how sad. They have small solar panels to watch tv and for some lighting but build clay ovens to cook outdoors and make handicrafts to sell, they bartyr with townsfolk with fish for fruit and vegies etc... so simple, and females dress in very colourful clothing with their dark black hair cascading down in 2 thick plaits tied with colourful pom poms, the bigger and brighter the pom pom the more available the girl, dark and small are for married ladies.
From there we went to another island where we had to climb over and across to lunch, our highest lunch spot at around 3700m, with a view of the lake. The men there knit as the women spin the wool and the designs are just fantastic, wish i could have bought some stuff to bring home but did not take much cash. Then back to puno.
The next day we got another coach for a long ride to Bolivia around the lake, we had a windy road to contend with after crossing the border and my stomach went out of kilter and I felt so sick... but we got to bustling La Paz which was nestled in among mountains and glaciers with hoardes of people and skinny cobbled streets crammed with vendors. We went to the Witches market where they sell all sorts of dried foetuses of llamas, herbs, potions, charms, talismans etc... all very weird, and then to the touristy craft shops before dinner.
The next day we went out of town to another ruin, pre inka and we were by then all tired, unable to take in the information the guide was gushing, and must have looked a bit sheepish. We had lunch and returned to the hotel as it was our last night. So there you have it... all over, and now I am in Argentina after a long wait in Lima for my connecting flight and have walked my legs off exploring the colourful, clean European like city, which is very large. I went to the zoo which was great and saw the animals i did not see in the Amazon, and the botanical gardens full of cats, they are everywhere... what is with that? Then I hit La Boca with its colourful tin houses and tango spontaniously happening everywhere in the tourist zone, and i walked for 5 hours through to the trendy shops and malls which was a huge contrast... my legs were so sore i got a cab back and went for a lovely swim in the hotel pool... the night life here goes on and people are everywhere, dining and drinking and dancing... it is a very cool and sophisticated city and is very European in feel. Great food, from all corners of the globe, wine, beers, cakes, chocolates.... a gourmet´s delight. They do a great caramel sauce which is in and on everything, and you can buy it in big buckets... hmmmm.....
Tomorrow is my last day and i have booked in a massage in the day spa downstairs in anticipation of my very long flight home... cannot believe this trip is over, but i have had an absolute amazing experience here and will definately recommend it and hope to return soon. Thanks for reading my blog, hope it was interesting... c u back home... P
oops i forgot the Amazon
Ok, if my memory serves me well, we flew from Lima to Cuzco and onto the Amazon where we were ushered into a covered motorized canoe and shunted to our jungle lodge over 3 hours away. We passed by flat bottomed canoes loaded up with timber or fruit looking so top heavy you wonder how they even stay afloat. We finally viewed our timber eco lodge and it was lovely, no electricity or hot water but just fine and dandy. We had our dinner and went for a night walk in the jungle with torches and spotted lots of insects and lovely big tarantulas, some of which lived under our cabins... (see the photos) and then were left on our own every 200m or so, torches off, to just become one with the forest. You could hear all sorts of noises in the still of the night, owls hooting, creatures moving around you as twigs cracked underfoot, insects buzzing around your ears... it was so dark, it was just amazing that 10 mins of stillness, isolation and silence... then we all joined up and walked back to the lodge together.
The next day we went for a long walk and trudged through the rainforest in the humidity and heat to a lake where we got into a flat bottomed boat and cruised around spotting turtles, monkeys and macaws and whatever else we could see... they were at a distance so no great pix there and were so startled by our presence they took off when we approached. Different to Galapagos where animals have no fear of humans as there are no predators there. It was so bloody hot as the glare of the sun on the water seemed to intensify the heat. We sleepily looked out of the boat into the river and spotted fish darting around the lily pads, and our guide caught a walking fish with a bit of chicken gristle on a fishing line... it was cool. We then headed back to eat our packed lunch in a banana leaf and had another 3 hour walk back and we were exhausted in the heat of the midday sun and the humidity and our guide stopped talking as he knew we wanted to just go back and shower and rest up. All in all it was a 6 hour walk. The cold showers were great....
That night a few of us jumped into the silty brown river full of caymen and fish and other scary stuff for a quick swim. None were eaten thank goodness so we went back to eat dinner and after that embarked on a Caymen hunt. We saw some small ones slither into the river as we spotlighted them in the dark and then our guide rocked our boat as he jumped off and chased after a small baby on the shore and bought it back to us to inspect. Poor lil fella was probably scared to death and mum was not too happy either. But he was put back in the same spot and wandered off into the bush without too much trauma i hope.
That night we heard rain on the roof as we slept. When we awoke the heavens opéned and i have never seen so much rain in my life, a steady shower of water pouring out of the heavens, wish we got that in Melbourne. We got the covered canoe back down the river to catch our flight and it was a soggy, cold and windy 2.5hours as the boat leaked water and we huddled out of the wind and rain. It was amazing... then we headed to Cuzco and you know the rest if you read the blog!
The next day we went for a long walk and trudged through the rainforest in the humidity and heat to a lake where we got into a flat bottomed boat and cruised around spotting turtles, monkeys and macaws and whatever else we could see... they were at a distance so no great pix there and were so startled by our presence they took off when we approached. Different to Galapagos where animals have no fear of humans as there are no predators there. It was so bloody hot as the glare of the sun on the water seemed to intensify the heat. We sleepily looked out of the boat into the river and spotted fish darting around the lily pads, and our guide caught a walking fish with a bit of chicken gristle on a fishing line... it was cool. We then headed back to eat our packed lunch in a banana leaf and had another 3 hour walk back and we were exhausted in the heat of the midday sun and the humidity and our guide stopped talking as he knew we wanted to just go back and shower and rest up. All in all it was a 6 hour walk. The cold showers were great....
That night a few of us jumped into the silty brown river full of caymen and fish and other scary stuff for a quick swim. None were eaten thank goodness so we went back to eat dinner and after that embarked on a Caymen hunt. We saw some small ones slither into the river as we spotlighted them in the dark and then our guide rocked our boat as he jumped off and chased after a small baby on the shore and bought it back to us to inspect. Poor lil fella was probably scared to death and mum was not too happy either. But he was put back in the same spot and wandered off into the bush without too much trauma i hope.
That night we heard rain on the roof as we slept. When we awoke the heavens opéned and i have never seen so much rain in my life, a steady shower of water pouring out of the heavens, wish we got that in Melbourne. We got the covered canoe back down the river to catch our flight and it was a soggy, cold and windy 2.5hours as the boat leaked water and we huddled out of the wind and rain. It was amazing... then we headed to Cuzco and you know the rest if you read the blog!
Sunday, October 4, 2009
cuzco and Machu Picchu
Hi gang, still on a high, literally, as just was in Machu Picchu this morning for sunrise... the past few days have been great.
Cusco is a lovely place with lots of history and culture and markets... the altitude was my greatest worry as in Quito i did not do too well, but drinking lots of coca tea must have done the trick. After 2 days exploring Cusco and eating alpaca steak and yes, I know, guinea pig... we left to start our trek at km82. The weather has been great and we walked for the afternoon at an easy pace, and i got to our campsite first. We had 4 italian middle aged people join our group and they were really good walkers... but i soon earned their respect and at first they called me Speedy Gonzales and later Queen of the Mountain. Porters carrying our 6kg luggage, tents, equipment, food etc all overtook us as they virtually ran up and down the paths as sure footed as a mountain goat... it was awesome to watch them speed past with huge packs on their backs sweating and panting to beat us to our campsite to set up when we arrived. We had a round of applause and a drink handed to us on arrival and our tents were set up, a dining tent for arvo tea and boiled water to drink. The loos everywhere were pretty rank to say the least and they were the only low points to the campsites which were used by many groups.
The second day was our hardest. We trekked to the height of 4200m and it was gruelling going up step after step. That day i overtook 2 other groups and even tho i stopped and got my breath every 10 steps or so as the air was so thin, I still got there first in our group with the italians 20 mins behind and the others following within the next hour or so. It was foggy and freezing up top and then we began our descent and that was also hard and steep. I had a headache by then so stopped trying to race the others which was not my intent, just wanted to prove to myself I could do it.
We finally arrived at our campsite and after arvo tea of popcorn and crackers and jam, we made our beds and played cards and then heard the heavens open... we were warm and dry and sat til dinner ended and the rain stopped. We always had soup, main and some small dessert. that night it was so cold in the tent i had to put on socks and a jacket and still could not sleep... was tired the next day.
We had a 5am wake up to start the next leg, long but not so challenging. That day was the prettiest as we hike up to another pass at nearly 4000m and watched the landscape change from rocky mountains to beautiful rainforest... i sped along taking pics of all the wildflowers and then lost everyone completely as i overtook 2 other groups again and ended up tagging along with an Intrepid group not sure where I was headed. I kept going and then finally came to our lunchspot at least 25 mins before the next people arrived. The guides said all they could see was a trail of dust as I disappeard into the distance and they had trouble keeping up, so i got briefed and let go to walk at my own pace. That night we were lower down and it was warmer in the tents.
The following day we had some more hills to climb with some Inka ruins along the way. We finally arrived at the last campsite with a lot of other trekkers at the base of the famed site we were to set eyes upon the following day. There was a shop and showers so drinks and cleaniness were top of the agenda. The cooks baked us a special cake on our last nite and that was lovely.
We hit the sack early as we had a 3.45am start to get packed and out of our tents and to line up to start the final leg of our journey. I could not sleep at all. We were off at precisely 5.30am when they opened the gates and i and 3 other Norwegian and one aussie girls overtook the Italians and virtually ran to get there first... a few people overtook us but we kept up the pace and the one hour journey took us 40 mins up the final flight of steep stairs to the Sungate where we were to get our first glimpse of the famed lost city in the clouds. it was thick with fog and we wondered when it would lift, but it was beautiful all the same with low cloud hanging over the mountains. Gradually it lifted and we held our breath and went a bit snap happy as the city came into view.
We made our way down and our guide gave us a history lesson and let us loose to explore. By now my legs were starting to ache so every step up was agony after the past 4 days, also it became quite sunny and hot so i got a headache again. It was so large and built to withstand earthquakes, had such good aquaducts still working and good defence systems and was just as amazing as I imagined... it was worth all the pain to get there. Now we are in Ollytantambo and seeing more inca ruins today and tomorrow before heading back to Cusco to wash all our smelly clothes and have a well earned rest.
Cusco is a lovely place with lots of history and culture and markets... the altitude was my greatest worry as in Quito i did not do too well, but drinking lots of coca tea must have done the trick. After 2 days exploring Cusco and eating alpaca steak and yes, I know, guinea pig... we left to start our trek at km82. The weather has been great and we walked for the afternoon at an easy pace, and i got to our campsite first. We had 4 italian middle aged people join our group and they were really good walkers... but i soon earned their respect and at first they called me Speedy Gonzales and later Queen of the Mountain. Porters carrying our 6kg luggage, tents, equipment, food etc all overtook us as they virtually ran up and down the paths as sure footed as a mountain goat... it was awesome to watch them speed past with huge packs on their backs sweating and panting to beat us to our campsite to set up when we arrived. We had a round of applause and a drink handed to us on arrival and our tents were set up, a dining tent for arvo tea and boiled water to drink. The loos everywhere were pretty rank to say the least and they were the only low points to the campsites which were used by many groups.
The second day was our hardest. We trekked to the height of 4200m and it was gruelling going up step after step. That day i overtook 2 other groups and even tho i stopped and got my breath every 10 steps or so as the air was so thin, I still got there first in our group with the italians 20 mins behind and the others following within the next hour or so. It was foggy and freezing up top and then we began our descent and that was also hard and steep. I had a headache by then so stopped trying to race the others which was not my intent, just wanted to prove to myself I could do it.
We finally arrived at our campsite and after arvo tea of popcorn and crackers and jam, we made our beds and played cards and then heard the heavens open... we were warm and dry and sat til dinner ended and the rain stopped. We always had soup, main and some small dessert. that night it was so cold in the tent i had to put on socks and a jacket and still could not sleep... was tired the next day.
We had a 5am wake up to start the next leg, long but not so challenging. That day was the prettiest as we hike up to another pass at nearly 4000m and watched the landscape change from rocky mountains to beautiful rainforest... i sped along taking pics of all the wildflowers and then lost everyone completely as i overtook 2 other groups again and ended up tagging along with an Intrepid group not sure where I was headed. I kept going and then finally came to our lunchspot at least 25 mins before the next people arrived. The guides said all they could see was a trail of dust as I disappeard into the distance and they had trouble keeping up, so i got briefed and let go to walk at my own pace. That night we were lower down and it was warmer in the tents.
The following day we had some more hills to climb with some Inka ruins along the way. We finally arrived at the last campsite with a lot of other trekkers at the base of the famed site we were to set eyes upon the following day. There was a shop and showers so drinks and cleaniness were top of the agenda. The cooks baked us a special cake on our last nite and that was lovely.
We hit the sack early as we had a 3.45am start to get packed and out of our tents and to line up to start the final leg of our journey. I could not sleep at all. We were off at precisely 5.30am when they opened the gates and i and 3 other Norwegian and one aussie girls overtook the Italians and virtually ran to get there first... a few people overtook us but we kept up the pace and the one hour journey took us 40 mins up the final flight of steep stairs to the Sungate where we were to get our first glimpse of the famed lost city in the clouds. it was thick with fog and we wondered when it would lift, but it was beautiful all the same with low cloud hanging over the mountains. Gradually it lifted and we held our breath and went a bit snap happy as the city came into view.
We made our way down and our guide gave us a history lesson and let us loose to explore. By now my legs were starting to ache so every step up was agony after the past 4 days, also it became quite sunny and hot so i got a headache again. It was so large and built to withstand earthquakes, had such good aquaducts still working and good defence systems and was just as amazing as I imagined... it was worth all the pain to get there. Now we are in Ollytantambo and seeing more inca ruins today and tomorrow before heading back to Cusco to wash all our smelly clothes and have a well earned rest.
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Peru
I arrived in Lima after 10.30pm and cleared customs pretty quickly. As you come out of the airport there are taxi hawkers... 150sol, 120 sol.... no gracias, es caro (is expensive) and so walked outside to taxi rank and got a cab for 55 sol... It was late and I crashed when I checked in.
Lima is in the desert and it never rains... that is why some old pyramids in the centre of town are in such good condition and being made of adobe, are being restored... it is constantly under cloud and the 2 days i have been here I have not seen the sun or sky at all. Maybe it is sea mist as near the coast in Miraflores, the posh end of town with antique shops, loads of craft markets, and Maccas, Pizza Hut, Burger King, KFC, Donut King, Starbucks and all the comforts of home...what a pity! The food is good here even with that lot to contend with.
Went for a quick tour of the old town and it has a mix of Spanish colonial architecture and Moorish influences and a real mix of styles. They are proud of their history and there are monuments and squares built in honour of their independence. The churches are beautiful and we went to St Francis of Assisi Church and went to the catacombes where there are bones of 25000 folk buried under the church, arranged in patterns after they were discovered, and metres deep. The foundations are so strong and built in a such a way that it is the safest place in Lima if there is an earthquake... they sure knew how to build em in those days.
Saw some amazing gold trinkets, ceremonial masks and lovely pottery pre Inca, at the central museum which used to be a bank. They had a lot of civilizations before the Incas, some lasting much longer and with amazing pyramid building skills and communication methods, but all information is lost and it is all a bit of a mystery for historians and archeologists.
Today I walked at least 6 hours in preparation for my big hike and after our meeting with the tour guide Bruno who scared us all by giving us the lowdown on how not to get mugged or kidnapped and how to keep our belongings safe on the trip especially in Bolivia where even he got his ipod stolen as he walked. Apparently there are several tricks to distracting tourists and making off with their stuff. Lucky I am the only non blond on this tour and many have commented I look like a local, even the locals... until I open my mouth that is... or look bewildered when someone speaks to me in Spanish.
After that heavy stuff, I got a cab into town for dinner to a big foody festival on for 4 days, "Mistura", and it was so yummy, lots of stalls with local produce and a huge variety of food sold by the plate, cakes, ice creams, juices, kebabs, tamales, empanadas, cerviches, breads, chips, cheeses, preserves, fruit and veg, etc... I tasted as many freebies i could get my hands on and then had some kebabs of which i do not know what meat it was... unlike anything i have had, and my first red meat of the trip. It was yummy tho, maybe it was guinea pig, alpaca or llama, who knows? Everything is served with potatoes and a hot or tasty sauce. Then i got my icecream fix, strawberry and mango gelati, and a free pkt of chips called Andinas, made from these potatoes with a white outside and red centre... hmmmmm. Chippies!
Now to bed to get ready to leave tomorrow at 7.20am for the jungle lodge with no electricity, no hot water and a mozzie net... we get to canoe along the Amazon River to get to it... cool hey? until next time, over and out.
Lima is in the desert and it never rains... that is why some old pyramids in the centre of town are in such good condition and being made of adobe, are being restored... it is constantly under cloud and the 2 days i have been here I have not seen the sun or sky at all. Maybe it is sea mist as near the coast in Miraflores, the posh end of town with antique shops, loads of craft markets, and Maccas, Pizza Hut, Burger King, KFC, Donut King, Starbucks and all the comforts of home...what a pity! The food is good here even with that lot to contend with.
Went for a quick tour of the old town and it has a mix of Spanish colonial architecture and Moorish influences and a real mix of styles. They are proud of their history and there are monuments and squares built in honour of their independence. The churches are beautiful and we went to St Francis of Assisi Church and went to the catacombes where there are bones of 25000 folk buried under the church, arranged in patterns after they were discovered, and metres deep. The foundations are so strong and built in a such a way that it is the safest place in Lima if there is an earthquake... they sure knew how to build em in those days.
Saw some amazing gold trinkets, ceremonial masks and lovely pottery pre Inca, at the central museum which used to be a bank. They had a lot of civilizations before the Incas, some lasting much longer and with amazing pyramid building skills and communication methods, but all information is lost and it is all a bit of a mystery for historians and archeologists.
Today I walked at least 6 hours in preparation for my big hike and after our meeting with the tour guide Bruno who scared us all by giving us the lowdown on how not to get mugged or kidnapped and how to keep our belongings safe on the trip especially in Bolivia where even he got his ipod stolen as he walked. Apparently there are several tricks to distracting tourists and making off with their stuff. Lucky I am the only non blond on this tour and many have commented I look like a local, even the locals... until I open my mouth that is... or look bewildered when someone speaks to me in Spanish.
After that heavy stuff, I got a cab into town for dinner to a big foody festival on for 4 days, "Mistura", and it was so yummy, lots of stalls with local produce and a huge variety of food sold by the plate, cakes, ice creams, juices, kebabs, tamales, empanadas, cerviches, breads, chips, cheeses, preserves, fruit and veg, etc... I tasted as many freebies i could get my hands on and then had some kebabs of which i do not know what meat it was... unlike anything i have had, and my first red meat of the trip. It was yummy tho, maybe it was guinea pig, alpaca or llama, who knows? Everything is served with potatoes and a hot or tasty sauce. Then i got my icecream fix, strawberry and mango gelati, and a free pkt of chips called Andinas, made from these potatoes with a white outside and red centre... hmmmmm. Chippies!
Now to bed to get ready to leave tomorrow at 7.20am for the jungle lodge with no electricity, no hot water and a mozzie net... we get to canoe along the Amazon River to get to it... cool hey? until next time, over and out.
Thursday, September 24, 2009
last days in Ecuador
Am at the airport wasting time til my flight to Lima, peru. Had a not so good return to Quito, picked up a stomach infection which made life miserable, no food, cramps, and the rest.... Went to celebrate a friends birthday and could not keep my chicken soup down and had to leave a nice resturant with folk music and dance and lovely food.
The next day went to the centre of the earth, the Mitad del Mundo and caught local buses crammed with people. My friend Emma was the tour guide as I was in no state to navigate out of my hotel let alone the centre of the earth.. We walked the equatorial line twice, first the wrong one which is a few degrees off and the new one caluclated by GPS and only a few hundred metres away from the original. It was weird, if you closed your eyes you could feel the magnetic forces pulling you north and south. The water thing is real, on the equatorial line water goes straight down, a few metres to the south it goes anti clockwise and to the north, clockwise, or is that vice verca? Then I balanced an egg on a nail and got a certificate... woo hoo! At least I am well balanced! We went to a mexican restaurant for dinner and met Sergio who had the walls and menus plastered with magazine covers of him with big 70s hair and moustache, apparently a big soap star in ol Mehico. He talked to us soooo much we were ready to tear him apart for FOOD! We heard his life story and finally got our food and the heater turned on after several requests, which was good coz the nights get cold, even on the equator. I had a plain tortilla with chicken which was all I could stomach. Emma did not like her dish as she described it as sponge cake with cheese, so he did not charge her, also forgot to charge for my bottle of water, so don't know how he makes any profit at all... too busy reliving his past!!!!
The next day feeling worse, I met my guide to Cotopaxi volcano, and after taking one look at me suggested we went for a drive instead of climbing the volcano. I was so looking forward to this hike. However, I knew i would not make it and so we drove for seven hours along backroads, into valleys and saw indiginous people farming, animals like the protected vicunas, a brown llamaish animal with shorter hair, llamas and alpacas. I saw the highest volcano Chimborazo in the clouds, peaking at 5300m. I was sick twice, and my poor tour guide Freddy looked after me so well. The locals farm on such steep, high hills and hike up and down with tools, must be so fit and at such altitudes. We hit 4200m at one point on the road before heading to Riobamba, 3rd largest city in the country, to my hotel for the night. Such excitement, I slept from 4pm til the next morning when I got a wake up call at the ungodly hour of 5am.
I caught the train (or more like a bus on wheels to my disappointment) to Aluisi, where Freddy met me and checked up on me, then i went to the Devil's nose, a bloody steep rail journey zig zagging down a mountain, then up again! Such views, all of Ecuador has the best views, the land of volcanoes. Oh and also the land of ice cream, pity i was sick, there is icecream everywhere and people buy it off the street vendors with dry ice buckets and in shops all day and night, we even drove thru a town known as the ice cream town which was cool.... yummy!
Today took it easy and went up a chairlift to see Quito from the air, the Teleferico. Then my first meal at Hussans back in the new town, and he was quite famous in the US with all the newspaper clippings and awards up on the wall, but I ate lentil soup and falafel and it stayed down. Best meal ever... after 4 days of bread, dry bikkies, tea and soup.
My flight departs for Lima soon and I arrive around 10.45pm, so that is all for this report... the next adventure starts Sunday, Amazon, the Inca trail and more. Stay tuned... over and out...
The next day went to the centre of the earth, the Mitad del Mundo and caught local buses crammed with people. My friend Emma was the tour guide as I was in no state to navigate out of my hotel let alone the centre of the earth.. We walked the equatorial line twice, first the wrong one which is a few degrees off and the new one caluclated by GPS and only a few hundred metres away from the original. It was weird, if you closed your eyes you could feel the magnetic forces pulling you north and south. The water thing is real, on the equatorial line water goes straight down, a few metres to the south it goes anti clockwise and to the north, clockwise, or is that vice verca? Then I balanced an egg on a nail and got a certificate... woo hoo! At least I am well balanced! We went to a mexican restaurant for dinner and met Sergio who had the walls and menus plastered with magazine covers of him with big 70s hair and moustache, apparently a big soap star in ol Mehico. He talked to us soooo much we were ready to tear him apart for FOOD! We heard his life story and finally got our food and the heater turned on after several requests, which was good coz the nights get cold, even on the equator. I had a plain tortilla with chicken which was all I could stomach. Emma did not like her dish as she described it as sponge cake with cheese, so he did not charge her, also forgot to charge for my bottle of water, so don't know how he makes any profit at all... too busy reliving his past!!!!
The next day feeling worse, I met my guide to Cotopaxi volcano, and after taking one look at me suggested we went for a drive instead of climbing the volcano. I was so looking forward to this hike. However, I knew i would not make it and so we drove for seven hours along backroads, into valleys and saw indiginous people farming, animals like the protected vicunas, a brown llamaish animal with shorter hair, llamas and alpacas. I saw the highest volcano Chimborazo in the clouds, peaking at 5300m. I was sick twice, and my poor tour guide Freddy looked after me so well. The locals farm on such steep, high hills and hike up and down with tools, must be so fit and at such altitudes. We hit 4200m at one point on the road before heading to Riobamba, 3rd largest city in the country, to my hotel for the night. Such excitement, I slept from 4pm til the next morning when I got a wake up call at the ungodly hour of 5am.
I caught the train (or more like a bus on wheels to my disappointment) to Aluisi, where Freddy met me and checked up on me, then i went to the Devil's nose, a bloody steep rail journey zig zagging down a mountain, then up again! Such views, all of Ecuador has the best views, the land of volcanoes. Oh and also the land of ice cream, pity i was sick, there is icecream everywhere and people buy it off the street vendors with dry ice buckets and in shops all day and night, we even drove thru a town known as the ice cream town which was cool.... yummy!
Today took it easy and went up a chairlift to see Quito from the air, the Teleferico. Then my first meal at Hussans back in the new town, and he was quite famous in the US with all the newspaper clippings and awards up on the wall, but I ate lentil soup and falafel and it stayed down. Best meal ever... after 4 days of bread, dry bikkies, tea and soup.
My flight departs for Lima soon and I arrive around 10.45pm, so that is all for this report... the next adventure starts Sunday, Amazon, the Inca trail and more. Stay tuned... over and out...
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